What Indian Women Wore Before Sarees: A Journey Through Ancient Attire

The saree is often seen as the epitome of traditional Indian attire, an enduring symbol of grace and femininity. However, this elegant drape is not the oldest form of clothing worn by Indian women. Long before the saree became a cultural staple, Indian women adorned themselves in a variety of garments that were both practical and deeply symbolic, reflecting the diversity and richness of ancient Indian civilization.

The Early Vedic Period: Simplicity and Modesty

In the Vedic period, roughly between 1500 and 500 BCE, clothing was simple, reflecting the agrarian lifestyle and spiritual inclinations of the time. Women typically wore a single piece of cloth called a "Vastra," which was draped around the body in different ways. This was often made of cotton or wool, depending on the region and climate. The garment was functional and modest, covering the body in a way that was both practical and respectful of the era’s cultural norms.

The "Antariya" was another common garment, a lower body wrap akin to a dhoti, usually made from cotton or muslin. It was often paired with an upper garment called the "Uttariya," a long scarf-like cloth that could be draped over the shoulders or wrapped around the head. The "Stanapatta" or "Kanchuki" was a breast band, often worn under the Uttariya, providing coverage while allowing freedom of movement.

The Mauryan and Gupta Periods: Drapes and Elegance

As Indian society evolved, so did the fashion. During the Mauryan (322–185 BCE) and Gupta periods (320–550 CE), the attire of Indian women began to reflect the increasing sophistication of the times. The Antariya remained a staple, but it was now often elaborately embroidered or made of luxurious fabrics like silk. The Uttariya continued to be popular, but it was now more of an accessory, draped in intricate ways to showcase wealth and status.

During this time, women also started wearing the "Nivi," a precursor to the modern saree. The Nivi was a long piece of cloth that was draped around the lower body and then pleated into the waist, leaving the upper body covered with the Uttariya. This style of draping allowed for more movement and comfort, especially in the warmer climates of the Indian subcontinent.

The Influence of Greek and Persian Styles

The conquests of Alexander the Great and the subsequent Indo-Greek kingdoms introduced new elements to Indian fashion. The "Kandys" or "Chiton," a long tunic-like garment, became popular among women in the northwestern parts of India. This was typically paired with a belt and often worn with the Uttariya draped over one shoulder, similar to the Greek himation. The Persian influence brought in the use of trousers or "Shalwar," especially in the northern regions, which were often worn under the Antariya.

The South Indian Tradition: Veshti and Pavadai

In South India, the traditional attire of women before the widespread adoption of the saree was the "Veshti," a long piece of cloth similar to the Antariya, and the "Pavadai," a type of long skirt. The Veshti was often draped in a style similar to the Nivi, while the Pavadai was paired with a blouse or "Ravike." The Veshti was usually unstitched, reflecting the belief that unstitched cloth was purer and more suitable for religious occasions.

The Tribal and Regional Variations

India’s vast geography and cultural diversity meant that tribal and regional variations in attire were common. In the northeast, women wore wraparound skirts like the "Mekhela" or "Phanek," often paired with a shawl or upper garment. In the Himalayan regions, woolen cloaks and tunics were common due to the cold climate. Tribal women across India often wore minimal clothing, adorned with intricate jewelry made from natural materials like beads, bones, and shells, reflecting their close connection to nature.

The Evolution of Indian Women’s Attire

The saree, as we know it today, is a culmination of centuries of evolution in Indian fashion. The garments worn by Indian women before the saree were introduced were diverse, reflecting the varied climates, cultures, and societal norms of ancient India. These early forms of clothing were not just practical; they were also deeply symbolic, embodying the values, beliefs, and artistic expressions of their time.

As we drape ourselves in sarees today, it is worth remembering the rich tapestry of history that this garment represents—a history woven with threads of tradition, innovation, and timeless elegance.