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One of my favorite outfits has always been the nine yards of wonder. My visit to Chanderi was influenced by the silken fabrics or Chanderi sarees that are well-known among our country's saree aficionados. Saris are noted for their subtle beauty, distinctive texture, transparency, lightweight, pastel colors, and elaborate designs.
Chanderi is a small village located near the Betwa River in the Vindyachal mountains. Chanderi, in Madhya Pradesh's Ashoknagar district, is noted for its ancient legacy and has developed with intensive economic activity due to its strategic location in Central India.
Chanderi is a weaving town. The looms, also known as the Bunkaar colony, are concentrated in the older portion of town, known as "Bahar Shahar" or "outside town." When exploring the mohallas (residential neighborhoods) of Chanderi, one can readily hear the resonating sounds of the working looms. Weaving was highly favored by the rulers of Chanderi. It was as if they were aware that Chanderi's fortune is linked to the fortune of the fabric they are woven.
The History of Chanderi Sarees
The history of Chanderi Sarees appears to be intertwined with that of Chanderi. Chanderi sarees are thought to have been mentioned in the Vedic period epic Mahabharata. It's debatable if the Mahabharata's reference to a pearl-embroidered sari refers to Chanderi sarees, although Chanderi sarees may be traced back to the 13th or 14th century AD.
Hazrat Wajihuddin, a Sufi saint, arrived in Chanderi around 1305 AD. It is thought that a huge number of people followed the saint from the Lakhnauti district of Bengal to Chanderi. Lakhnauti was the traditional name for the Bengali region of Gaur.
Bengal, particularly Dhaka, was famed for manufacturing excellent muslin cloth at the time. Those who moved to Chanderi most likely began weaving and producing exquisite fabrics. The majority of Chanderi weavers came from the Muslim community at first. However, after the 1350s, Koshti weavers from Jhansi relocated to Chanderi and established down, enhancing the fabric's renown.
Chanderi's finest phase of weaving occurred during the Mughal period. According to legend, Emperor Akbar was once sent a length of Chanderi weaved cloth, which was packaged in a little bamboo hollow. The emperor was shocked to discover that the cloth could cover an elephant when it was pulled out and unfurled. Chanderi was famed for its exquisite muslin or malmal production.
The Maharani of Baroda was a Chanderi weaver as well. She was believed to be able to tell how fine fabric was by rubbing it against her cheeks, and she would pay the weavers accordingly. Exclusively for Maratha rulers, high-quality Chanderi turbans were made.
Traditionally, Chanderi muslins were as good as, if not better than, Dhakai muslins. The Chanderi fabrics were originally made with handspun cotton warp and weft. The British, however, imported cheaper cotton from Manchester with the arrival of the industrial revolution, eroding the market for Chanderi items. Weavers switched to silk as a warp as a result of it.
Chanderi Sarees in 2022
Even today, Chanderi is known for its handloom. The women of India have been impressed with Chanderi sarees. Chanderi currently produces good-quality dress fabrics and dupattas in addition to sarees.
Process
The tana, or warp, is a stretched-out group of threads through which the bana, or weft, is weaved back and forth across the length of the cloth.
The butis, or designs, on Chanderi fabric were woven with needles on a handloom. Previously, two weavers had to sit together to make a single saree. However, after the invention of the Fly Shuttle loom, a single person can now weave a saree. The weavers are the people who do the actual weaving and are mostly subsistence farmers. The Master Weavers provide the raw ingredients, such as silk or cotton yarn, to the weavers. They are primarily in charge of taking all instructions and ensuring that they are carried out.
At Chanderi, there are up to 3600 functioning looms, and women are actively involved in the weaving process. In fact, there is a popular proverb in Chanderi.
Shahar Chanderi Mominwara,
Tiria Raj, Khasam Panihara,
(In Chanderi town, in the weavers’ quarter.
The wives rule, and husbands draw water.)
Pure silk, Chanderi cotton, and silk cotton are the three types of materials used to make Chanderi sarees. Coins, flower art, peacocks, and geometric designs are the most popular patterns found on traditional sarees.
Only white sarees were woven until the 1920s, after which they were bathed in saffron to give them their distinctive golden tint and scent. These saris were also dyed in gentle pastel colours using flowers. Artificial colours are currently utilised to dye clothes.
One saree might take up to ten days to construct, depending on the design's complexity. The price of the sarees and the materials used is also determined by the design. We could easily see the weavers' skill and the dedication that went into creating the gorgeous silken cloths. Chanderi sarees and fabrics, like most of India's indigenous handicrafts and handlooms, are a community-driven initiative.
The government of Madhya Pradesh has established a loom park with electric looms to assist weavers. Then there's Mission Chanderiyaan, which is backed by the Ministry of Communication and Information Technology, the Digital Empowerment Foundation (DEF), and Media Labs Asia, which strives to integrate digital inclusion into the lives of weavers in order to improve their livelihood alternatives.
Chanderi saree weaving involves more than just cloth manufacture. It's also a way of preserving centuries-old customs. Chanderi, like the painters of Raghurajpur and the craftspeople of Majuli, is working hard to bring their trade to the forefront while maintaining its legacy while adapting to current techniques. So, if you're in Chanderi, don't forget to pick up a Chanderi saree or any other outfit material. It's available for purchase directly from the Bunkaars. It will undoubtedly be beneficial to them in the long run.
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